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The restaurant that celebrates 5 years of bad manners: a benchmark among traditional eateries
Barcelona is experiencing new trends in the restaurant scene. Large groups own a variety of restaurants, some smaller ones are closing, while young people with passion, enthusiasm and hard work are opening new places—these are the traditional eateries of the past, now renewed.
One of these is the restaurant Maleducat, which is celebrating 5 years of bad manners: a project created by several friends and led by chef Víctor Ródenas. It reinterprets traditional Catalan cooking with some modern touches, while retaining its foundation in ingredients, techniques and flavours. Its success is growing, and unlike venues that close without even reaching two years of existence, Maleducat, with mid-to-high prices, carries on, holds its ground and grows stronger.
This is borne out by the queues that are usually there at lunchtime before the restaurant raises its shutters, a clear sign that people want to go and that the food is good here. There are no flourishes, or perhaps there are, but few; it bears the hallmark of traditional eateries, only made by young people, so there is some innovation in its dishes. The service is good and quick: they know that people who come at lunchtime cannot stay for long hours. There are dishes to share and others you can eat in a more substantial, more leisurely way if that is what you feel like. And at night, or whenever suits you best, people come to enjoy themselves without rushing. In the midst of the bustle of the Sant Antoni area, this is a venue that lets you immerse yourself in a local, fun, lively and enjoyable gastronomic world.
As its own managers say: «Maleducat was born from the dream of three friends with a clear idea: to create a kitchen without rules or pretensions, where tradition and innovation mix with an irreverent attitude and without protocols».
Fine dining, with an edgy touch
If anything stands out at Maleducat, it is this already mentioned combination of tradition and more innovative techniques, always with seasonal produce as the star. With an irreverent, unfettered spirit, the restaurant was born to challenge the established order, showing that fine dining can also have a more edgy side.
Because there is no need to be in a gastronomic restaurant or eating fine dining, always among white tablecloths and in an excessively formal atmosphere. No: one can let oneself go and not feel constrained. That is what is in fashion today, and what many young chefs and front-of-house managers defend and advocate.
They know the techniques and current trends well; nevertheless, at Maleducat people eat what its managers like. And that is not pedantry, because there is nothing better than feeling the flavours of your favourite dishes and knowing how to convey them to others.
The menu combines dishes to share with an ever-evolving menu, adapted to seasonality without losing its essence: quality and closeness. It gives prominence to local producers and fuses tradition with new techniques. Although it has few tables and is a rather small place, the atmosphere is relaxed and informal, where every dish is enjoyed because each one has been conceived for that purpose.
Some dishes include oysters, coca topped with raw squid, dry rice with Palamós red prawns or the surprising braised beef tendons. ‘Sea and mountain’ dishes are its foundation, as are those off-menu suggestions, which add a unique touch to a creative and versatile gastronomic offering.
Maleducat’s wine cellar has been carefully curated. There are local, national and international references, with 50% Catalan wines, 30% of national origin and 20% international options. It also offers a cocktail menu, designed to go beyond classic wine pairing and add a more special touch.
Two areas between modern and old-fashioned
As soon as you enter, there is a somewhat narrower area and a bar, and the restaurant consists of two more distinct areas. Although it is a well-designed, modern place, with wood, colours and lighting that are perfect for lunch or dinner, there is something in the atmosphere that reminds us of traditional eateries.
Interior designer M.ª Dolors Vila, from the Barcelona studio Doviol, has done clear work: a space without artifice but with character, where reddish and brown tones bring warmth.
In the entrance area, diners can experience the restaurant’s bustle and dynamism first-hand, while the inner dining room has an intimate atmosphere near the kitchen, where they can relax and also watch orders going in and out. In addition, Maleducat has a covered, climate-controlled terrace.
Average spend: 55 €